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Vibrant market town on one of the most scenic rail routes remains seriously overlooked

If you haven't heard of this charming Welsh market town, it's probably because this place has been quietly keeping its treasures to itself.​


It might not shout for attention, but if you look closer, you'll find ancient Roman ruins, a proud history of cattle droving, unique shops, and a scenic train line that winds through wild landscapes.​


This modest town is a great starting point for exploring mid-Wales, especially if you enjoy history, countryside walks, and hearty pub meals.​


Often overshadowed by its more glamorous neighbour, Llandeilo, this place is a hidden gem—quietly confident, rich in history, and full of untold stories.​


Image of Llandovery
Image credit: Photo © Stuart Logan (cc-by-sa/2.0)


Not many people know about Llandovery's special place in Roman history. While Caerleon often gets the spotlight, the story continues into the rural areas.​


Nestled between the Cambrian Mountains and the western Brecon Beacons, Llandovery is a peaceful town with a deep Roman past. Before it became a market town, it was a key point in the Roman conquest of Wales, a fact often missed by history fans.​


As noted by Cadw, the Romans, under Governor Aulus Plautius, arrived in Britain in AD 43, marking the end of prehistory. They quickly moved through southern England but were stopped by the mountains and the fierce Celtic tribes of Wales.​


Image of Llandovery
Image credit: Photo © Jeff Gogarty (cc-by-sa/2.0)

It took them another 25 years to subdue this tough mix of rough terrain and strong resistance. However, unlike the heavily Romanised south and east of Britain, Wales was never fully conquered.​


The hills around Llandovery still show signs of history, as the Romans were the first to build here, setting up the fort of Alabum around AD 50–60 at nearby Llanfair Hill.​


Far from being a remote outpost, Alabum protected important Roman roads linking Carmarthen, Brecon Gaer, and the Dolaucothi Gold Mines. Roman soldiers were stationed here, and archaeologists have found remains of the military bathhouse and earthwork ramparts.​


If you visit St Mary's Church, take a closer look at the walls—you'll see red Roman tiles reused by the Normans centuries later.​


Remember - LeaveNoTrace!


As with anywhere outdoors, kindly keep these areas pristine and wild by taking all trash with you. The amount of complaints we have seen since the pandemic is crazy. It's really not that hard to take your rubbish with you!


Litter tends to spread, so if you see any and are able to pick it up and dispose of it outside the hidden gem, it will help keep the area tidy.


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