Gorgeous cobbled-street village hiding the little-known ruins of an ancient medieval castle
- UK Hidden Gems
- 4 days ago
- 2 min read
On Northumberland’s wild coastline sits a tiny fishing village known for two things, its long kipper-making tradition and its closeness to one of England’s most dramatic castle ruins.
Even though it’s small, its history, setting and charm have made it one of the most recognisable places to visit along the Northumberland coast.
This place is closely linked to L. Robson & Sons, a famous smokehouse that has been running for generations.
Using old-fashioned techniques, the family still creates oak-smoked kippers that are sent all over the UK, and people say they’ve even been enjoyed by members of the Royal Family.
The smoky scent from the smokehouse often drifts through the village and mixes with the fresh sea breeze.
The harbour is still busy with fishing boats, protected by solid stone walls. Around it are narrow streets bordered by grey stone cottages, tiny cafés and small local shops.
But for many people, the best part of visiting is the 1.3-mile coastal walk that begins near the harbour and leads straight to the mighty ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle.
Walking along the coast, you’ll have open fields on one side and the crashing North Sea on the other, along with the sound of seabirds above. The path is easy for most people, but it can feel very open and windy at times.
There is a shorter path from Dunstan Steads, which passes by a golf course, but beginning your walk in Craster gives you a stronger sense of the link between the village and the castle.
Dunstanburgh Castle was built in 1313 by Thomas, Earl of Lancaster, one of the richest and most powerful men of the time.
When it was finished, it was the biggest castle in Northumberland. Its huge gatehouse and tall towers were meant not just for defence but also to send a loud message, partly to worry his cousin and rival, King Edward II.
Thomas didn’t enjoy it for long. After leading a failed rebellion against the king, he was caught and executed in 1322.
The castle then passed into royal hands and later played a role in major fights, including the Wars of the Roses. By the 1500s, it had started to crumble, with its lonely position and fierce coastal weather speeding up its decay.
Remember - LeaveNoTrace!
As with anywhere outdoors, kindly keep these areas pristine and wild by taking all trash with you. The amount of complaints we have seen since the pandemic is crazy. It's really not that hard to take your rubbish with you!
Litter tends to spread, so if you see any and are able to pick it up and dispose of it outside the hidden gem, it will help keep the area tidy.
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